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The joy of NoLo: Waking up to the wonderful world of no- and low-alcohol drinks

Katie Spain
Katie Spain

Go-to for a zippy, mid-afternoon citrus pick-me-up: Yes You Can Alcohol-Free Yuzu Sake.
Go-to for a zippy, mid-afternoon citrus pick-me-up: Yes You Can Alcohol-Free Yuzu Sake. Supplied

As a wine writer, I was never going to find a 12-week abstinence challenge easy. No booze seemed unfathomable. Fortunately, the NoLo (no alcohol, low alcohol) scene is booming, and the drinks options now are thrilling.

Since Sans Drinks founder Irene Falcone opened Australia's first non-alcoholic bottleshop in Sydney's northern beaches in 2021, alcohol-free retailers have popped up across the nation.

Shelves full of non-alc alternatives are also commonplace at traditional liquor stores, while temperance menus now sit comfortably alongside wine pairings at top-end restaurants across Australia.

Co-owners of Monceau Rowan McNaught and Alan Caras.
Co-owners of Monceau Rowan McNaught and Alan Caras.Justin McManus
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The growth in the category was captured by the IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, which found Australia is among the countries where growth of no-alcohol and low-alcohol beer consumption is projected to be among the highest over the next four years.

For the likes of ALTD Spirits founder Tim Triggs, abstinence is a lifestyle as well as a business. Triggs gave up alcohol in 2016 for what was meant to be six months. He hasn't returned to it since. As a result, he launched ALTD Spirits with his sister in 2018.

"Back then there was a serious lack of alcohol-free choices and we were the target market, so it just made sense to give it a crack," he says.

Four Pillars Bandwagon Dry comes alive with tonic water.
Four Pillars Bandwagon Dry comes alive with tonic water.Benito Martin

"I honestly think the word is spreading that not being hungover is amazing. People are waking up to it. It's such a messy, destructive habit for so many. Loads of people are fine with alcohol but lots more aren't. I think as NoLo becomes more normalised, more people are embracing it."

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As de-alcoholisation technology improves and inspiration and experimentation blossoms, so too does the offering. Whether you're abstaining completely, seeking a bit of moderation or are simply NoLo-curious, there are some thoughtfully made gems to be found. Give these inspired alternatives a try.

Beer

Heaps Normal Half Day Hazy Pale Ale, NSW, from $4.50/can, $64.95/case

Photo: Supplied

The stellar non-alcoholic XPA and classic lager made by Sydney's Heaps Normal have been well publicised since four pals founded the company in 2019. The latest addition to their arsenal is the Half Day Hazy Pale Ale. It's as close as you'll get to the real deal and begs to be consumed while cutting laps on a ride-on lawnmower (doesn't all beer?). 0.5 per cent alcohol by volume. heapsnormal.com

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Hop Nation Mind Ya Head Non-Alc XPA, Vic, $15/four-pack

Melbourne craft brewery Hop Nation makes the full-flavoured Mind Ya Head Non-Alc XPA, awarded Australia's number one non-alc beer in the 2022 Australian International Beer Awards. The can features two magpies swooping a cyclist – Aussie as. The limited-release Hop Nation Opening Doors Non-Alc Hazy Pale Ale and No Fool Non-Alc Raspberry Sour (both $17/four-pack) are also refreshing after a hard day's toil. Less than 0.5 per cent ABV. hopnation.com.au

Sobah Pepperberry IPA, Qld, $16.50/four-pack

Based in Burleigh Heads, Sobah produces a range of non-alcoholic craft beers while raising positive awareness and promoting First Nations' culture, arts, language and history. For a full sensory overload, try this complex bushtucker-packed brew. Less than 0.5 per cent ABV. sobah.com.au

Photo: Supplied
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Cider

The Apple Thief Pink Lady Non-Alcoholic Cider, $30/six-pack

At first sip, the sugar hit delivered by this alcohol-free cider might be startling, but add some ice and it's an utter delight. The bird on the label is a playful ode to the cheeky birds that steal fruit from cidery founder Dave Purcell's orchard. It's made in NSW using 100 per cent pink lady apples grown in Batlow, at the base of the Snowy Mountains. Zero added sugar, zero juice concentrates, zero alcohol, and all fun. theapplethief.com.au

Photo: Supplied

Mixed drinks

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Katie's pick

Awesome Source Non-Alcoholic Gin & Tonic, $59/eight-pack

Frances Chnaider and her partner, Ben East, put a great deal of effort into their small-batch non-alcoholic gin and tonic. "An excessive amount of drinking during COVID, a Tony Robbins seminar and the excitement of combining my partner's rocket-wizardry skills with my product innovation background led us to create this business," Chnaider says. "We refuse to use sweeteners of any kind, fillers, gums, fake burns (the ones that try and mimic alcohol burns) and any of the other common non-alcoholic additives you'll find." And as packaging goes, theirs is hard to beat. Less than 0.5 per cent ABV. awesomesource.co

Yes You Can Alcohol-Free Yuzu Sake, $52/dozen

One sip was enough to make me seek out Yes You Can's Insta account and hit "follow". It's become my go-to for a zippy, mid-afternoon citrus pick-me-up but also holds its own as a party beverage. Founder, ex-Olympian Tyler Martin and his partner Sophie came up with the idea for Yes You Can while Sophie was pregnant and craving an Aperol spritz. You won't find any artificial flavours in the range. Just all-natural extracts, essences, flavours and distillates. Less than 0.5 per cent ABV. yesyoucandrinks.com

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Banks Botanicals Banks Herbarium & Pink Grapefruit Tonic, $19.95/RTD four-pack

This mixed drink tastes so much like Pfeffernusse (German iced gingerbread cookies) it's like a trip to Deutschland. You might also detect some wattleseed and wild Tasmanian pepperberry in the mix. Zero per cent alcohol. banksbotanicals.com

ALTD Spirits An-marabula Native Peach Bellini ($25/four-pack)

A limited-edition collaboration between ALTD Spirits and Indigenous bushfoods specialist Kakadu Kitchen, this drink shines a spotlight on an-marabula (Kakadu native peach). The debut run is limited to just 300 cases. altdspirits.com

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Still wine

The search for an Australian-made zero-alcohol still "wine" that blows my socks off is still under way. Many lack texture, tannin, and/or taste too sweet or flimsy. The Triple Creek Winery B1654 2021 Non-Alcoholic Shiraz (from $19, less than .05 per cent alcohol, freespiritdrinkco.com.au, anadrinks.com.au), however, provides hope for a more fulfilling future. The de-alcoholised Barossa shiraz offers textures, dark fruit flavours, a lick of oak and green tea-like tannin. As whites go, the Giesen 0% Pinot Grigio ($16.99, danmurphys.com.au) is surprisingly expressive and tasty.

Fizz

Pure Vision Zero Sparkling, Adelaide, SA, $20

Family-owned Pure Vision Wines makes award-winning certified organic wines. Adding a Zero range was a bold step towards the future. The new-release sparkling chardonnay is the jewel in the crown. The chardonnay delivers an exhilarating citrus bang. Drink it as you would a good prosecco, with friends and animated conversation. Zero per cent alcohol. purevisionwines.com.au

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Sidewood 'Nearly Naked' Zero-Alcohol NV Sparkling, Adelaide Hills, SA, $22

Layers of lemon and brioche make it an elegant option for discerning drinkers. "We found a lot of zero-alcohol wines on the market that tasted oxidised, sweet, unbelievably acidic, unfermented or cider-like," says Sidewood marketing manager Sam Evans. "If we were going to do this, the fruit intensity had to be clean, bright and vibrant with a dry finish." Zero per cent alcohol. sidewood.com.au

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Spirit alternatives

Four Pillars Bandwagon Dry, Healesville, Vic, $50

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Four Pillars head distiller and co-founder Cameron Mackenzie says creating Bandwagon Dry gin was probably the most difficult thing they've ever done. "The thing that makes these products so difficult is that they lack the palate weight, texture and sweetness of alcohol," he says. "They are driven by beautiful aromatics but tend to be watery." Adding tonic to Bandwagon Gin unlocks the flavours and aromas, making it taste more complete. Find it at bottleshops, Woolworths, David Jones and fourpillarsgin.com

The Gospel Projects Responsible Rye Non-Alcoholic Whiskey, Melbourne, Vic, $46

Nothing hits the spot quite like the real stuff, but this is an admirable attempt by Ben Bowles and Andrew Fitzgerald's Melbourne distillery, The Gospel, which is dedicated to producing straight rye whisky. This is no different. The flavours of rye whiskey are there – only more like a whiskey on ice that's had a bit of time in the glass. Best mixed with ginger ale and a slice of orange. Less than 0.5 per cent alcohol. thegospelwhiskey.com

Lyre's Italian Orange, $44.99

This non-alcoholic drop holds its own against the hard stuff. The vibrant orange liquid has all the citrus punch of a classic bitter orange aperitif (such as Campari), with a distinctly modern edge. Pithy blood orange flavours explode when added to soda or tonic water. A great sundowner or brunch accompaniment – minus the hangover. Zero per cent alcohol. lyres.com.au

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Photo: Supplied

Left of centre

NON7 Stewed Cherry & Coffee, Melbourne, Vic, $30

If in doubt, reach for fizz by Melbourne's NON. These boundary-pushing beverages tick all the boxes – particularly quality – and are challenging enough on the flavour front to spark serious joy and intrigue. Throw the NON7 into the mix at your next dinner party and watch collective minds blow. Zero alcohol. non.world

Monceau sparkling non-alcs and pet-nats, Melbourne, Vic, from $17

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Craft brewery Monceau is a pioneer of top-notch sparkling wine alternatives and I am currently obsessed. The Brunswick-based producer makes raw and unfiltered non-alc pet-nats using the ancestral method (from $18/bottle) and sparkling non-alcs spanning flavours such as pamplemousse (grapefruit), cerise, and passionfruit. They sell out fast so keep your eyes peeled for them at retailers and restaurants. monceau.com.au

Ziggy's Wild Foods Wild Coffee & Native Dorrigo Pepper Qishr Shrub, $20

This slightly sweet, delightfully acidic drop is inspired by qishr, a traditional Yemeni coffee and sweet ginger drink. Enjoy as it is or add a splash of soda or ginger beer. What is a shrub? Put simply, it's an age-old mixed drink combining fermented plants, a sweetener and vinegar. Zero alcohol. ziggyswildfoods.com.au

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