The groundbreaking television series Sex and the City showed that a good man is hard to find. In the sequel And Just Like That... it’s men with a good sense of style who are thinner on the ground than a Manolo Blahnik stiletto.
“It really is a woman’s world in that show, telling women’s stories,” says costume designer Rita Carmody, who works on the Netflix series Heartbreak High. “Maybe it’s a decision that the male characters aren’t as drawn out. You don’t want them to pull focus.”
And just like that, the men miss out: Aidan (John Corbett) in a belted Belstaff jacket hugs Carrie (Sarah Jessica Parker); Lisa Todd Wexley (Nicole Ari Parker) with Herbert Wexley (Christopher Jackson); Steve Brady (David Eigenberg ), the ex-husband of Miranda Hobbes.Credit: Getty
OG characters Carrie, Miranda and Charlotte, along with new additions Seema and Lisa, express their emotions through designer clothing from Halston, Vivienne Westwood and Valentino in the series, streaming on Binge
The supporting male characters are left with a bleak tonal landscape of suits, sweaters and work shirts by costume designers Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago.
Even the return of Carrie’s love interest, jilted woodworker and emotional punching bag Aidan, was a style downgrade from the character’s former uniform of classic Levis and boho turquoise jewellery. It took place with actor John Corbett in a buttoned-up, belted Belstaff Trailmaster jacket, looking like a Star Wars extra manning the Death Star.
“It can be challenging dressing men because there are often less resources,” Carmody says. “On television men can get away with wearing the same pair of jeans. That’s harder to do with a woman.”
Since the arrival of television, most Australian viewers have been content with men appearing clean and neat, with anything too bold a challenge to their masculinity.
The fashion forward cast of ‘Heartbreak High’.Credit: Netflix
“When rock and roll culture arrived in the seventies, teenage boy characters on television who were shown as being fashionable immediately raised the question ‘are they gay?‘” says Professor Michelle Arrow, from Macquarie University’s history department. “That still happens.”
“Gay characters, like those in Schitt’s Creek, or Stanford (Willie Garson) from the original Sex and the City have greater permission to participate in fashion.”
In the latest episode of AJLT, gay style expression shifted onto Seema’s male colleague in a loud suit and feather brooch. Europeans are exempt from the curse of bland knits, with Seema’s latest love interest wearing a cravat.
“Food judge Matt Preston got away with a cravat on Australian television, but there’s still the rigid sense of what it is possible to look like as a straight man. You can be a tradie, a dad, or wear a suit,” says Arrow.
As more series are developed with male characters that extend beyond AJLT’s roles of furniture designer, lawyer and bar owner, Arrow thinks we will see colourful representations of men.
On Heartbreak High, which features a young cast and includes a non-binary character, there are already greater opportunities for men to express themselves through clothing.
“We definitely spend as much time with the men as the women,” says Carmody. “I think we can thank Harry Styles for loosening things up. The lines between men’s and women’s clothing has become blurred.”
“We can hand a male character a woman’s top to try and no one bats an eyelid. Everyone is happy to give it a go. It’s a good time to be growing up because everything is a bit more fluid.”
“Then again our cast is young and very good-looking.”
The best dressed men on TV
I love George Constanza’s clothes from Seinfeld, He chooses some great bold colours and check prints, wears some really great raincoats and jackets with leather collars, cashmere knits and classic fit jeans. – Christian Kimber, designer
When it comes to exquisite men’s style on TV, Mad Men and Peaky Blinders lead the way for me. Ruthless, refined, classic layered fashion, no matter the situation. – Lincoln Younes, Last King of the Cross, actor
As the proud owner of seven identical white t-shirts (not to mention a collection of patchwork tattoos), it is unsurprising that Carmy from The Bear is my on-screen style icon. I have long believed that if I am in doubt about what to wear, a crisp white shirt is the ultimate fail-safe – then along came Carmy to prove my point in the most spectacular way. Given how the internet has turned thirsting after Carmy into a blood sport (yes, Chef!) I’m pretty happy with where this look is at; now I just need to find a way to work an apron into my wardrobe.
Kendall Roy’s fashion sense, much like his entire vibe, is a bit chaotic. In Succession he dresses for the man he wants to be rather than the man he really is. We’re talking Gucci sneakers, Tom Ford knits and that insane $25,000 gold pendant he wore in the season three finale. No amount of money could help Kendall pull these looks off, but that’s what I appreciate about him; he’s aspirational. I’ve been known to take a few risks (linen shorts are not my friend), so I respect Ken’s willingness to try. Oh, and his collection of logo-less caps. – Thomas Mitchell, culture reporter and columnist
I might be parochial, but I think Aussie actor Murray Bartlett as Armond character did a lot for the loud floral print shirt and cotton suit summer combo in season one of The White Lotus. Much like Armond, it’s a little brash and garish, but you can’t question the fact it conveys a larger-than-life personality. – Matt Jensen, MJ Bale, founder
The only TV characters I love are Will & Grace. Particularly Will. He is a style icon. Somehow his clothes are super casual, but fit as though they were tailored. – Jordan Gogos, Iordanes Spyridon Gogos, designer.
My new summer fashion inspiration is undoubtedly Cameron (Theo James) from the second season of The White Lotus. Resort wear might seem easy, but it’s hard to nail the balance of looking relaxed and comfortable, while showing off some style, and being weather appropriate. Cameron pulled off two of my favourite looks: short-sleeve button ups with bold prints, and a couple of different knitted polos – harking back to the gorgeous fashion on display in The Talented Mr Ripley, also set in the south of Italy. When you’re that fit, you can probably get away with anything, so it’s even more a testament to Cameron that he thought so hard about how to show off his personality through his outfits. – Osman Faruqi, culture editor
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